Warchild LED Signal Lamp FarkelPart 2 of 2: Wiring the LED Signal Lamps
Since the entire nose assembly is apart, you have ample opportunity to scout out likely candidates to mount the 2 relays needed for this application. Below we see the left-side two bolts (that take an 8mm socket to remove/replace) retaining the windscreen motor that are test-fitted with Relay 'A' and 'B' below:
LIGHTING REQUIREMENTS: The LEDs are to routinely act as Running Lights and are lit at all times that the ignition is switched on.
Desired Signal Light Behavior: When the right signal lamp (for example) is activated as usual, the right-side LED Running Light should extinquish itself for the period of time the right signal lamp is lit. Once the signal light flashes off, the LED Running Light re-ignites. This gives the appearance of a "twinkling" light display for signaling purposes. This pattern repeats as long as the signal lamp is activated. When the signal light is stopped, the LEDs revert back to constantly on Running Lights.
In order to acheive this effect, I needed two high-quality 5-terminal 12V relays. I went with some killer Bosch 30-amp units (which is waaaaaaay overkill, but, WTF...). These relays are the Real Deal, made in Germany by Bosch, and are very tough.
Here is the schematic I designed to achieve that desired effect:
This is a very simple solution. Two relays are supplied with switched power, flowing into Terminals 30 and out on Terminals 87a, and onward to power its respective LED lamp. As long as the ignition is on, the LEDs are lit. If the right (or left) signal light is activated, it sends 12v signal voltage to right (or left) relay, which activates the relay, switching the power to flow out of terminals 87 (which aren't connected to anything). Thus, the LED light stays "off" as long as its attending signal light is "on", and vice versa, creating a "twinkling" effect.
Here are the relay connections, which initially don't look as clean and tidy as the above schematic might suggest! Note how neither terminal 87 (closest to camera) has a connection, but rather, remains unconnected:
Fortunately, a little more application of wire loom and electrical tape tidies up things quite nicely:
The final effect, seen here as they would immediately prior to startup (photo doesn't begin to do justice on how bright the Raybrig LEDs are!):
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